Favourite Fell Days: Dale Head and Hindscarth

setting off from honister slate mine

At the end of our annual two weeks in June last year, we decided to finish on Dale Head and Hindscarth. It was the most beautiful day as we parked in Keswick and took the Honister Rambler bus up to the Slate Mine which was a lovely, relaxing way to start, and they allow dogs.

Getting off at the mine, we decided to be civilised and have a cup of coffee first (in reality, an excuse to have a piece of their superb Rice Krispie cake). Suitably refreshed, we headed back towards the Youth Hostel and strode briskly up the path opposite; I say briskly, but we were sloshing with coffee and Krispie cake at that point, so it was more of a stroll. As you gain height towards Fox Fold, the views start opening out with Honister Crags dominating the near ground, but also over to the Helvellyn range and across to Bowfell and Great End.

the views opening out as you climb higher

the mine paths

dale head looking towards skiddaw and blencathra

just stunning

The path continued upwards hugging the fence to our left and wasn't really too steep although longish, and it was quite warm. As you begin the final pull to the summit, the path gets a little steeper, but it's soon over and you’re on the flat summit plateau. There's a huge, solid cairn and the views down the Newlands Valley and to Skiddaw are truly breathtaking.

After quarter of an hour or so, we set off along Hindscarth Ridge following a well trodden, easy path with the most amazing views all around us, especially of Fleetwith Pike, and the views down into our favourite Buttermere Valley. In the bright sunlight, it was all just stunning and such a pleasure. The route to Hindscarth's summit drops down off Dale Head but is otherwise flat and the summit was easily reached quite quickly. We spent some time there enjoying the views, the peace and the sun before making our way back to Dale Head again to spend more time there again, enjoying the views.

We had some sandwiches on the top, a bit of a fully clad sunbathe and an interesting chat with Duncan and Yvonne Booth, the organisers of the 10 in 10 challenge (www.10in10.org.uk) who were planning the next route. After that, it was sadly time to turn our backs on the beautiful views and begin the easy descent to the mine again, just in time for the return bus.

from dale head looing towards hindscarth

on the ridge to hindscarth

buttermere and crummock water views opening up from the ridge to hindscarth

hindscarth’s summit

back to the start again

A truly memorable day. Low on effort, big on reward, fantastic views, warm sun, peace and quiet. Just what you want.

Except more Rice Krispie cake.

Lakeland Part 2: The Low Hills

newton fell north looking towards the fells

STAVELY fell’s views of windermere. a fabulous little walk

As the dog is still so young and tends to get over-excited at, well, just about everything, we mixed up our walking days on a recent visit to the Lakes. We had one or two longer days, some non climbing days and tackled some of Wainwright’s Outlying fells which are ideal as they’re short, gentle walks for him and have great views for us.

We also had two or three days of torrential rain and so made those the non climbing days and these were spent in and around Grasmere and Ambleside and visiting Keswick Mountain Festival, which was a first for us and a lovely way to spend a morning. All in all, for the dog’s first proper walking holiday, a lovely mix of fells; 15 in all.

keswick mountain festival with ominous clouds - it closed in the afternoon because of high winds

windermere views from todd crag

lovely stone bench to sit and admire ullswater

beautiful ullswater from heughscar hill

newton fell north - on the way to the motorway!

Lakeland Part 1: The High Hills

views from harter fell

We've just had two wonderful weeks in the Lakes. It was the dog’s first proper walking holiday, and even though he's been three times already, he was too young to take on proper walks at those time. This blog focuses on the high fells and the next one will detail the lower fells we tackled.

The first day saw us climbing Sticks Pass to Stybarrow Dodd (which Bro and I had climbed before without a dog in a bitterly cold, sleety/rainy whiteout) and on to Watsons Dodd which completed the Dodds for us whilst enjoying fantastic views of the northern fells.

We did quite a long walk up to Caudale Moor and on to Hartsop Fell and back, taking refreshment at the Kirkstone Inn on our return, enjoying the open fire and lots of like minded chat with fellow walkers. The dog did amazingly well on a fairly soggy day on Shipman Knotts and a howling gale on Kentmere Pike, and we enjoyed a great, sunny walk up to Harter Fell overlooking Haweswater, where we joined two ladies who were completing their round of the 214 Wainwright fells, taking their photos and celebrating with toffee vodka. A mostly sunny fortnight with a couple of days of rain made for great walking weather and we did 15 mountains.

the northern fells from sticks pass

on to watson’s dodd from stybarrow dodd

second time for us on stonycove pike/caudale moor

approaching HARtsop fell from caudale moor looking to ullswater

the KENtmere valley

the KENtmere valley

the gatesgarth pass from harter fell looking across to BRAnstree

haweswater from harter fell

wonderful

The Blob...

the blob

I love anything weird, wonderful, odd, spooky and bizarre, and the Blob, also known as Star Jelly is one of those things. Nobody really knows what it is. It has been found all over the Lakes and only in the Lakes, and today has numerous websites devoted to it. It wasn’t frogs spawn, it wasn't in water, it was just sitting on the grass. It wasn't wet or dry (I didn't touch it), but it seemed moist and slightly rubbery, it had a solid form and was about the size and shape of a large potato. There was nothing moving in it and there wasn't any more of it other than this blob. Mysterious jelly from meteors, some sort of cosmic goo, Magpie vomit, the remains of partially digested frogs ? Who knows, but it's been around since the 14th century.

Outstanding Outlyers

the far reaching view from hampsfell

Last week we were back in the Lakes, this time staying in Ambleside. The weather was wonderful, with just one misty and damp day, but for early March it was fantastic.

The dog, now a year old, was introduced to the fells gently and we tackled some of the Outlying Fells. For those of you who don't know, they are the 116 lower fells around the edges of Lakeland that Wainwright suggested people not able or inclined to tackle the high fells, enjoy for their shorter length, lower height and fabulous views.

We certainly enjoyed climbing  Hampsfell, Grandsire, Nameless School Knott, Latterbarrow, Wool Crag, Beacon Fell, Reston Scar, Hugill Fell, Cunswick Scar and Scout Scar.

They really are little gems. Dare I say it, but it's actually quite refreshing to have a shorter walk, a gentler gradient and an easier climb and yet still be back in time for a cup of coffee or tea, depending on when you start. I think most of the actual walking probably took us no more than an hour, sometimes less, although the dog does like to mess around a lot and it takes us at least an hour longer to get anywhere! The views are just breathtaking.

The favourites of the week were Hampsfell in Grange over Sands which has the most beautiful views over Cartmel and Morecambe Bay and a spectacular limestone pavement. Cunswick Scar is a dream of a walk with far reaching views over the Howgills, Pennines and right round to the high fells of the Coniston range. Scout Scar (which you could literally toddle up in 10 minutes) has breathtaking views, while Latterbarrow was tackled from Wray Castle with a lovely start meandering through the grounds then a beautiful, gentle walk up though woods to the huge summit cairn where I was just stunned into silence at the panorama around us.

They really are such wonderful, smaller fells with the most astonishing views. Perfect for a gentle walk.

CARtmel from hampsfell

early morning at the wray castle boat house

panoramic views from latterbarrow

windermere coming into view from the latterbarrow descent

the views from grandsire

the howgills from cunswick scar

stunning little scout scar

Favourite Fell Days: Ard Crags and Knott Rigg

the views from ard crags’ summit

Last March we decided to visit a relatively unexplored area for us, the Newlands Valley. We'd climbed Catbells, Maiden Moor, High Spy, Dale Head and Hindscarth, so we'd essentially walked some of the ridges above the valley, but this time we would actually be right in the thick of it. The weather was perfect; clear, sunny but just cool enough.

We parked at Little Town and would have gone further to the spaces at the head of Rigg Beck but we couldn’t make the turn over tiny Chapel Bridge in the Land Rover, so we walked the mile or so to where we would have parked at Birkrigg Quarry. It was a pleasant, flat walk by Rigg Beck through the little valley of the same name, with Causey Pike towering over us to the right and Ard Crags looking huge and slightly menacing from this viewpoint.

An obvious crossing point of the beck and faint path diagonally up through the bracken signalled the beginning of the climb up to the foot of Aikin Knott (sounding like something a chiropractor could fix) as the summit of Ard Crags was no longer visible from this point. There was an enormous grassy bank to overcome and, in the heat of the morning, it was a real slog.

Ard Crags looking menacing

from aikin knott looking back at the huge grassy bank - you can just see the couple following us, right of centre on the path

Once we reached the foot of Aikin Knott, there was a narrow, steep path to negotiate which would have been straightforward for us, but we had to consider the dog who wasn't as agile as he had once been There were one or two tricky areas, but they were easily overcome and the dog managed well. We were glad of the breeze once on the ridge as we’d got a little warm on the climb up , but the views were magnificent. Causey Pike, Eel Crag and Sail to one side, the Newlands Valley to Dale Head, Robinson and Hindscarth the other, the ridge to Knott Rigg ahead, Skiddaw and Blencathra looming behind.

The ridge was flat and wide and it was a simple walk to the summit of Ard Crags. We had lunch there, cooling off, enjoying the scenery and chatting to the a couple who had followed us all morning, which was lovely. It was then a simple down and up to Knott Rigg further along the ridge, with its wonderful views of the Buttermere valley and the High Stile range.

Almost at the summit of Ard crags looking into the NEWLands valley

keskadale farm, our return route, from ard crags

the ridge from ard crags to knott rigg

Knott Rigg summit

After a pause to take some photos, enjoy the weather and the views, we set off following a faint but obvious path down towards Keskadale Farm in the Newlands Valley. The going was good and fast on springy turf and heather which was dry underfoot. The dog, at 12 years old, flew along like he always did downhill, and before long we were half way down. The other couple, still following us, were soon quite a way behind. I stop to take more photos and admire the views than Bro, but we were soon over a stile by the farm's rather smelly dog kennels and out onto the road, where it was an easy yomp back to the car.

Just as we were changing out of our boots and having a quick drink, the other couple arrived, having parked next to us!

Unbelievably stunning views in all directions, perfect weather and a lovely couple to chat to on the way round made this a really memorable and wonderful day.

on the way back down - ard crags summit is visible top left

stunning views of Newlands

Coping with adverse weather conditions : Cold

grasmere

Walking in winter can be hugely enjoyable and stunningly beautiful, but it can also be more challenging, so a little more preparation and care is needed.

SKIDDaw from longside edge

1. Degrees of cold: I once spent a night in the Ice Hotel in Swedish Lapland, well inside the Arctic Circle, when it was -27. That temperature didn't actually feel any different to -2, but the wind chill is brutal. If it's cold down in the valley, it'll be degrees colder on the tops, and if it's windy, then much more so.

2. Help yourself: Your body works much harder to keep you warm in the cold, so you tire more easily. Keep your core warm, take on plenty of fluids, have regular snacks and don't hang around too long to eat, drink or admire the view.

3. Wear windproof over-trousers: We walked up to Raise and on to Stybarrow Dodd last November and I thought I was fine in my 'windstopper' trousers until it started snowing, with a freezing wind which hurled itself at us the minute we stepped onto Stybarrow's summit, until I couldn't feel my legs. Bro kindly let me wear his over-trousers on the descent to warm up, and it really made a difference. I never walk without them in my pack now, even in summer.

4. Wear spikes: They really will help you grip on slippery, slushy, icy or snowy paths and will be especially invaluable on the descents.

5. Have a contingency plan: Be prepared to change and adapt your plans according to the conditions, your abilities or how you’re feeling. After coming down from Wetherlam one winter to Swirl Hause, we were planning to carry on up the Prison Band to Swirl How but we were cold, a little tired, it was very foggy and the climb up was very icy, so we decided against it. Much better to enjoy it as another walk, feeling fresh and with a view.

6. Tell someone: Let someone know where you're going, leave a note or at least know how to call Mountain Rescue - call 999 and ask for Police who will transfer you.

7. Enjoy it: Be prepared to absolutely love the crisp air, the magical scenery and crunching along in the snow. Even if the conditions are less than perfect, think of a hot chocolate, a hearty meal and a roaring fire at the end of your day.

yes, still enjoying it!

Four seasons in one week

We have just returned from a lovely trip of just under two weeks in the Lakes, staying on the outskirts of Grasmere. We have been in November for the past few years and love late autumn/early winter for the autumn colours and crisp walking, especially if you're lucky enough to see the sun as well. I think we had all four seasons in the space of a week.

At the beginning of the week, it was balmy with a fresh breeze but no need for a jacket, just like late spring. A day later, it was ridiculously warm, with sun all day which had some strength like early summer. Autumn came mid week, with cooler temperatures and the need for a down jacket, but at the weekend it was full blown snowy winter conditions with hat, gloves, scarves and central heating.

This trip was more relaxing than our usual hiking weeks as, with our other four visits this year, we are unable to walk our young dog for more than half an hour until he's a year old at least. We still had some lovely shorter, flatter walks admiring the autumn colours, then had a wonderful surprise of a heavy snowfall one night that made everything look magical. With the sun, it was stunning and we hadn't seen snow like that in the south since 2011.

We did manage to climb one or two Outlying Fells including the dog’s first Wainwright, Humphrey Head. The weather was stunning that day; calm and clear with wonderful soft, autumnal light and a low sun. It was completely still on the summit and the views were beautiful and far reaching. The gentle, short ridge walk was perfect for the dog, although he didn't really know what to make of the trig point and barked at it suspiciously on the approach! 

We also climbed School Knott (Bro and I summited in tandem, one staying with the dog) which has one of the best views I think we've seen so far on the lower fells; a 360 degree panorama right round from Coniston Old Man to the Pennines. The snowy fells in the background lit by the sun, especially the Howgills, were just staggeringly beautiful and was a huge reward for such little effort.

A lovely set of walks, and interesting and unusual to experience so many different seasons in such a short time!

views from humphrey head

looking inland from humphrey head

from tarn hows towards the LANgDALE pikes

storm clouds gather over the pikes

a sudden grasmere snowfall

an alpine grasmere

grasmere

very cold early morning in GRASmere

Kelly Hall Tarn

coniston old man from kelly hall tarn

beautiful mellow light

Have you become a hiking fanatic?!

So, how do you recognise when you've truly become a hiking fanatic?

1. You spend most of the day gazing longingly out of the window, sighing dramatically, wishing you were anywhere but stuck indoors.

2. You become a bit obsessed with the weather. Even when you're not on the fells. Or even going to the fells.

3. You think nothing of spending an obscene amount of money on a pair of walking trousers, yet gasp in horror at the price of a pair of black ones for work.

4. You use a rucksack as a handbag at every opportunity as it's just more practical you tell your horrified girlfriends.

5. You bore everyone around you about summits conquered, summits yet to conquer, summits you'd love to conquer, as well as energy bars, protein sources, running routes, boot merits, electrolytes.....

6. You think nothing of hauling your hair into a messy knot and tramping about joyfully make-up free and soaking wet, yet wouldn't dream of going to the shop without lipstick, mascara and freshly washed hair.

7. You suddenly become expert in anti-inflammatories, unctions, lotions embrocations, balms, liniments, ointments, unguents, soothers, salves....in the past you would have just had a bath.

8. You acquire an encyclopaedic knowledge of adductors, glutes, quadriceps, extensors, medial and lateral plantar nerves, sciatic nerves, posterior femoral cutaneous nerves, tendons, cartilage, ligaments, hamstrings...in the past, you would have just had a pint.

9. Maps become eternally fascinating; you can spend hours poring over them - in fact, you frame them and even dream of one day having a dedicated map room...

10. You gorge on walking magazines, books, guides, blogsites, vlogs, websites, Facebook groups, You Tube; anything to get your fill of all things mountain.

11. You enjoy your new found strength, stamina and fitness, showing off to friends as you scamper up stairs and stride out briskly, secretly quite pleased that you're known as 'the whirling dervish'. Consequently, you're asked to do all the lifting and shifting in the office.

12. You enjoy the simple things much more; a beautiful tree in autumn, a sunset, an amazing view or birdsong - after years of haring madly round the globe trying to see everything before it all gets too dangerous or too expensive. Or both.

13. Most of all, you love it because you just love it. As George Mallory said, 'because it's there'.

Favourite Fell Days: The Knott, Kidsty Pike, High Raise and Rampsgill Head

sublime views from kidsty pike

In September of last year, at the end of a great week of walking, we decided to mop up the summit of The Knott which we'd been meaning to do for a while plus, it's one of our favourite areas to walk. We parked in the car park at Hartsop and set off up towards the Hayeswater access road. The weather was superb; in fact very, very warm, but beautifully clear.

Climbing past Pasture Beck looking up to Threshthwaite Mouth and then across Hayeswater Gill, the path started to rise more steeply across Grey Crag's flank until we reached Hayeswater and began the climb up towards The Knott. The path we were on eventually joins the main path coming up from Patterdale; part of the Coast to Coast route and it's just such a beautiful area to walk in. The whole of the ridge from Brae Fell to Kidsty Pike and beyond is just stunning, as it is in just about every direction you look.

Once on the Coast to Coast path, we got to just below Knott's summit and decided that that was probably enough for the dog who, although still going strong, was nearly 13 and we didn't want to push him too far. Bro and I took it in turns to run up the last 100 feet or so to the summit. We met lots of Coast to Coasters who stopped for a chat which was lovely.

looking back to hartsop from the path up to hayeswater

hayeswater

Bro had been looking at the map while I was on the summit and decided that, as Rampsgill Head was so close, we might as well do that in tandem as well while we were up there. I sat with the dog and ate a sandwich, enjoying the peace and solitude whilst Bro jogged the easy couple of hundred feet or so to Rampsgill and back. Once back, breathless with summit fever, he'd said he’d also spotted Kidsty Pike and High Raise and, while we were discussing who would go first, the dog trotted off quite happily towards Kidsty Pike having got his second wind!

The path was an easy, flattish one to Kidsty Pike, so we were happy if he was. The views from that path and the summit of Kidsty Pike over Haweswater, High Street and Riggindale were utterly breathtaking and we spent quite some time there, just drinking it all in, enjoying the silence and trying to spot the Golden Eagle (we didn't).

The dog, after refuelling with biscuits, was by now full of energy again as we headed for the next summit of High Raise which was easily achieved with a straightforward path down then fairly gentle climb up, rewarding us with far reaching views north which were just beautiful. It was then another final, gentle climb to the Rampsgill Head ridge with its wonderful views down Ramps Gill Valley. It was beginning to get a little colder and cloudier here and, looking round, we seemed to be the only people still up there, so we got ready for the walk back.

Riggindale towards haweswater

the distinctive peak of kidsty pike

High Street from Kidsty Pike

From Rampsgill, it was an easy couple of hundred feet back down to the col at The Knott, then we re-traced our steps to Hayeswater.

each view seemed better than the last

The dog was amazing, given that this had been a long walk on a very warm day, but he was still trotting ahead of us when he reached the car at Hartsop. With some sadness however, for us, we decided that this would be his last high level walk and he was duly retired from the high hills. It had been a fabulous and memorable day for us, and a great walk for his last mountain outing.

Favourite Fell Days: Dow Crag and Brim Fell

Last March, we decided to tackle Dow Crag and Brim Fell. We'd been up to Goat's Water a few times before and had always looked up at the ridge in anticipation of a good, solid walk.

Parking on the rough ground, it's always lovely walking the Walna Scar Road and this day was no exception; that beautiful, bright, warm sun but with the fresh feel of early spring, with perfect clear air and views that go on for miles. We soon reached Cove Bridge and began the steeper zig zagging climb up to Walna Scar Pass, pausing for the obligatory photo in the stone shelter at the side of the path. Once at the top of the pass, the cloud came down and it began to get a little chillier, so we donned down jackets, hats and gloves and set off into the mist. I love walking in the mist - everything becomes quiet and a bit spooky and people or sheep loom out of the gloom!

From there, it was a fairly gently pull up to the summit of Brown Pike and being in the mist, we were surprised to find ourselves there so quickly. Whisps of cloud swept over the crag, down and across towards the Old Man which was lovely and atmospheric. We stopped for a slug of water and an energy bar in the wind shelter, then set off along the ridge towards Buck Pike.

Along the ridge were the most magnificent views over Eskdale, with Harter Fell standing proud and alone. At Buck Pike’s summit we stopped for photos, even capturing ourselves as Broken Spectres which was a real treat!

BROKEN SPECTRE!

harter fell

The huge bulk of Dow Crag loomed intimidatingly in front of us through the now thinning mist and cloud, but the weather was sunny and fresh - a beautiful late winter/early spring day. We edged round the East Gully, then on past the Great Gully which fascinated the dog who edged just a little too close for Bro's comfort.

The last climb to the summit of Dow resulted in fabulous 360 degree views, although the wind increased alarmingly, so we didn't stay too long. We then dropped down to Goat's Hause and had lunch in the sun, now out of the wind which was something of a relief.

The Old Man

After a enjoying the warmth of the sun, we followed the well worn path up as though going to the Old Man, although we branched off to the left, across the flank of Brim Fell, then scrambled easily and directly up, coming out almost opposite the summit cairn. It really was stunning up there on a huge wide plateau, with crystal clear views of Windermere and beyond, but the wind was turning colder, so we headed back after a wonderful, exhilarating walk in beautiful weather; one of those mountain days you really remember.

Windermere from Brim Fell

On the way back to the Walna Scar road, coniston ahead

The ridge just walked

Fellosophy

Confucius was a wise man; a teacher and philosopher who gave us the principle of do as you would be done by. I have no real grasp of philosophy although I have on occasion pondered the 'why are we here' question, but other than that, I pretty much just go through life in happy philosophical ignorance. I thought I would take some of the wise man's teachings and see if could try and apply them to myself.

Confucius says: It does not matter how slowly you go as long as you do not stop.

In the early days of fell walking, I would huff and puff my way to to the top, usually getting cross in the process and constantly wondering 'how much further', 'what up there' or 'you must be joking'. I was once sent on an Outward Bound course from work and pretty much the best bit of advice I was given (which I still apply 26 years later) is, as soon as you think you can't do it, you won't. Your mind is powerful and I think most of climbing is having a positive mental attitude - it certainly worked for me. My desire to get to the top and see the view spurs me on.

Confucius says: Our greatest glory is not in never falling, but in rising every time we fall.

I'm surprised to say that in all the years we've now been walking more seriously, I've only fallen three times and none of those was serious - just thumping down on grass; once on Pike o'Blisco I slipped on ice and went down on my knees, but nothing really dramatic. It does teach you to watch your step though.

Confucius says: When anger rises, think of the consequences.

It's amazing the number of times we've heard people arguing on the fells and the funny thing is how far voices carry. It's a long way. We've actually looked round to see who it was behind us going hammer and tongs, only to spot the culprits across the valley on the opposite ridge! Stomping along in a temper can't be much fun either. I can honestly say we haven’t experienced either.

Confucius says: Success depends upon previous preparations and without such preparations there is sure to be failure.

Very true. In our very first fell outings, we were woefully unprepared and although nothing dramatic ever happened, it probably made the walks harder and less enjoyable that they should have been. Dehydration on Heron Pike, the wrong kit and clothing on our first Helvellyn attempt, following sheep paths, taking short cuts and ending up walking further and harder, but suffice to say lessons have been learnt and we are always well prepared in every way. We were once able to help a lady suffering from heat exhaustion and huge blisters about half way up the Ranger's Path on Snowdon because we had plenty of food, spare drink with electrolytes and a first aid kit.

Confucius says: Ability will never catch up with the demand for it.

I've lost count of the number of times I've looked longingly ahead and thought, it's not that far to the next summit, or we've completely under-estimated the distances between fells, or not taken account of huge valleys or ravines in between them. We've stood, occasionally for quite some time, looking up at summits after 8 or 9 miles wondering whether to carry on, but we do always do the sensible thing and turn back. Having a dog with you also makes you a little more realistic. Make sure you have enough energy for the return trip and any unforeseen detours you might have to make ( we had to do a 3 mile detour to avoid a bull in a field once, after a 9 mile walk....)

Confucius says: Real knowledge is to realise the extent of one's ignorance.

All those early mistakes we made have turned us into half way reasonable walkers and helped us, more importantly perhaps, learn what not to do. Packing the right kit, taking enough food, knowing your route and alternatives, knowing your limitations and knowing when to turn back if necessary ( we turned back half way between Whin Rigg and Illgill Head because the dog was pretty arthritic by then and we didn't want to push him too far when we had a long return journey). Most of all, you can relax and enjoy yourself which is what it's all about.

Confucius says: Everything has beauty but not everyone sees it.

We can honestly say we've enjoyed every walk and every fell we've done. Even Armboth Fell and Mungrisedale Common which Wainwright himself didn't rate very highly. They both had stunning views at the very least. Everything has something positive or beautiful about it; even on the dullest trudge you can spot beautiful wild flowers, interesting rocks or listen to birdsong. I always try, on the routine daily commute, to spot something interesting - just to enrich the day, even for a second.

Confucius says: Wherever you go, go with all your heart.

Can’t argue with that.

Spring Tulip

Walking with Gertrude

SKIDDaw from longside edge

At the end of December, we lost our wonderful dog and were heartbroken. We decided to do something different in January, just to break the month up a little and take our minds off things, so we booked a long weekend in Keswick.

We had a meeting just outside Penrith on the Friday morning, so driving up on Thursday meant we could have a full day's walking on the Saturday and drive home on Sunday. Perfect, except for the weather...Storm Gertrude was brewing and dire predictions were being made about driving into the eye of a storm (mainly by Mum). The journey of four and a half hours up the M6 was in beautiful sun and we made it all the way to Shap before the rain started, but even then it was only patchy showers. The wind did buffet us on the exposed section over Shap Fell, but nothing too dramatic, although we did take it steadily.

Friday was beautiful all day; lovely bright sun and not too cold, but the wind was still blustery, so we endured more buffeting on the M6 heading towards Penrith but it was much calmer on the way back to Keswick. Saturday was clear, sunny and calm and all the fell tops had a fresh dusting of snow which looked gorgeous.

We decided to tackle Long Side, Carl Side and Ullock Pike as they were only a 10 minute drive from the hotel and a ridge walk in winter in a looming storm was something we probably wouldn't have tackled with a dog. We parked at the Old Sawmill Tearooms and set off up through Dodd woods. It was lovely and quiet; no wind, rain, ice or snow and no real flood damage that we could see although one of the trails had been closed. As the gradient eased and we approached the 'Dodd Summit' sign, Gertrude hit us full in the face, but it was still dry and relatively warm.

The views were lovely as were the clouds racing over Derwentwater as we began the climb up to Carl Side. Once we reached the summit, Gertrude made her presence felt again in quite an aggressive way and it got more than a little nippy, so we stopped to don water/windproof jackets and trousers and warmer gloves. A slug of freezing water completed the preparations.

The views were beautiful and we were in full sun. Now properly clad, we were perfectly warm and debated for about two seconds whether to veer off up Skiddaw, but Gertrude was playing rough and we still had Longside Edge to do, so decided against it. Gertrude was rushing about at around 45 miles an hour at that point, so not so strong you could lean against her - although we tried - but enough to make you stagger, which was not a good idea on an Edge, so there was a lot of bracing with the walking poles. It was actually quite good fun, but we were sensible, digging the poles in when a strong gust hit side on.

It still wasn't really that cold and looking behind us, Derwentwater was shrouded in mist and gloom, so we felt we'd had the best of the weather. It was a fabulously exhilarating walk that blew the cobwebs away. Gertrude had behaved herself, despite being a little pushy at times!

crepuscular rays over keswick

ullock pike’s view towards scotland

longside edge

Change and Improvement

FLEETWITH pike’s stunning summit

It’s now been eight years since we started climbing the Wainwrights properly and, after walking in the Himalayas, Rockies, Andes, Alps as well as the Peak District, Yorkshire Dales, North Yorkshire Moors, the Cotswolds, the Chilterns, Scotland, a couple of summits of Snowdon and a good clutch of Wainwrights, we like to think were are now moderately experienced walkers; at the very least we are really beginning to see results in ourselves, both mentally and physically.

Firstly, our fitness levels have improved dramatically. We have both lost weight and toned up and are both a least a size smaller. We also cycle - both mountain and road bike - run regularly, and walk every day with the dog. We both walk much more quickly now, although I still can't keep up with Bro. His ability - honed after 11 years of being yanked down mountain sides on the end of a lead - to find his footing on slippery and rocky paths at speed is astounding, and we're constantly amazed he hasn't broken an ankle in the past few years.

We now wear proper walking clothing after those early days of just wearing whatever was to hand in the drawer. Fitted trousers, wicking tops, lightweight fleeces and soft shells in bright colours, along with down jackets and Gore-Tex waterproofs. Rucksacks were slimmed down and properly fitted with expert advice as were boots, and we have a drawerful of walking socks, gloves and hats.

We take as standard a couple of maps, compass, first aid kit, GPS with spare batteries, head torches and a hat and gloves even in summer. A waterproof is always at the bottom of the pack and we use walking poles which really help your knees on the descents. We have learnt about which foods to take - usually nuts, dried fruit, a boiled egg, energy bars and a bit of fruit. We don't often take sandwiches as we have a decent breakfast, but for a long day, we will take a wrap with chicken in it; even if it gets squashed it's still edible and not too dry. We also carry a water bladder each and use electrolyte tabs in them which has the added benefit of making the water taste better!

We both have a much more positive attitude too which has come organically. Sighs of 'what, up there?' and 'really, that far?' are now a thing of the past. We're always amazed when coming down (much harder I think) how steep the path can be and how we didn't really notice it on the way up. Our determination and confidence has also improved.

Most of all, we've been really enjoying ourselves. Fresh air, great views, good company, a good laugh, an achievement and a pint at the end. Long may it continue!

Welcome to the Website!

the Newlands valley from dale head

Welcome to the website! We, my brother and I and our Golden Retriever, are about three years into a quest to climb all the Wainwright fells, from our starting point in the south of England. We first came to the Lake District, after a couple of early visits with our parents, in 2007, for somewhere different to walk the dog. 

We loved it and came back every year, but really only climbed about one fell each visit, as we just weren’t really interested in climbing then and much preferred low level, flatter walks. 

In 2012, a conversation at Alcock Tarn with an older couple sitting at the water’s edge in the sun resulted in their suggestion to climb up to Heron Pike. I’m not sure how keen we were, but it would have been rude to refuse, especially as they were watching our progress! 

However, Heron Pike changed everything.

We didn’t realise at the time, but we were looking into the Fairfield Horseshoe. We saw how staggeringly beautiful the area was from up high and how it was a whole new Lake District from our lofty vantage point, and we were  totally hooked. From that moment on, we began climbing in earnest and with enthusiasm, coming up once, twice, even five times a year from then on.

This website is predominantly the story of our Wainwright journey, but also a way of sharing our life outdoors and our travels. We hope you enjoy reading it!

mellbreak across crummock water