Transylvania ha ha.......

I was very fortunate to be offered a week's work trip in April to Transylvania somewhere, frankly, I have long wanted to visit.

Those that know me know I like anything spooky and this, coupled with the mountains and the history, was perfect for me! A number of people have said, before I went and after I returned, that they didn't think Transylvania was a real place, so firmly entrenched are we in the Dracula myth, but yes, it is a region of Romania and yes, there actually was a real Dracula - Vlad Tepes, also known as Vlad the Impaler. He obviously wasn't a vampire, but he might have drunk the blood of his victims as it meant taking on their characteristics - be it strength or bravery. Dracula meant son of the Devil which is a reference I imagine to a fairly brutal and cruel reputation, but they were different times and he is regarded a something of a folk hero in Romania.

Anyway, the myth is a little perpetuated in some areas - mainly for the tourists - but it is a fascinating country with some truly unique sights I've never seen anywhere else in all my travels, and I loved it.

bran castle - DRACUla’s castle

vlad tepes, aka vlad the impaler aka vlad dracul

the shoemaker’s house

We visited the cities/towns/villages of Bucharest, Sinaia, Brasov, Bucovina, Sighisoara, Bistrita, Cluj Napoca, Alba Iulia and Sibiu, and the overriding impression I had is that everything is very old, very authentic and very unspoilt, which was fascinating. Most of the smaller towns and villages date back to the 13th century and I don't imagine they look so different from those times. Small, crooked houses all brightly painted, narrow cobbled streets, tiny old churches, covered wooden walkways and fantastic old clock towers dominate town and village squares.

We visited the beautiful Peles Castle filled with stunning wood carvings and Bran Castle traditionally known as Dracula's castle, although Vlad Tepes was only held prisoner there for a short time. Prejmer Fortified Church really was an extraordinarily tangible example of the history of everyday people; a four storey fortified wall around the church; all built of wood which we had to feel our way round in semi darkness on uneven floors, and all utterly untouched since the 1300s. Tiny rooms where families sheltered in troubled times were just as they would have been back then. Astonishing and quite moving.

The landscapes varied as we travelled through this amazing country against the backdrop of the Carpathian Mountains, still with patches of snow, from the mightily impressive 1000ft cliffs of the Bicaz Gorges to the more rolling and pastoral Moldovan farmland region. We visited the utterly exquisite painted monastery at Voronet, one of only a handful left in the county with unbelievably beautiful, vibrantly painted Biblical scenes covering every surface, inside and out. We visited the unique Salina Turda salt mine with its three hundred foot cavern and lake at the bottom where you can row a boat in the dim light and people come to take the air to help with respiratory problems.

We also visited museums and huge churches in Cluj Napoca and Alba Iulia, had dinner in Dracula's birthplace and childhood home which is now a restaurant in Sighisoara and ended in Bucharest which is a busy, buzzy city - a little like Paris but on a vast scale, with little remnants of the older city still existing in tiny churches and ornate courtyards tucked away down narrow back streets.

prejmer fortified church

voronet painted monastery

dracula’S house in sighisoara

salina turda salt mine - boating 300ft down!

carpathian mountains

All in all, it was a fascinating, memorable trip. It's a wonderful place to visit if you want something a little different, somewhere unspoilt with a long, interesting history and a touch of spookiness on the side!!

Spring in the Lakes

thornthwaite crag

Well, a fortnight's trip to the Lakes has been and gone far too quickly. We had a fabulous time, even if it didn't go quite as planned. The weather was utterly amazing and we spent a fair amount of it in T-shirts, but then had a fall of snow on the last but one day, which made everything look magical.

We did beautiful Catstye Cam from Glenridding village whilst staying in the gorgeous Glenridding Hotel, which finished the Far Eastern fells for us as well as the whole ridge from Clough Head to Dollwaggon Pike. We took a steamer from Glenridding to Howtown and walked the length of pretty Fusedale up to Whether Hill which was a mopping up exercise as we'd done the rest of the ridge going back towards Pooley Bridge in a huge smog cloud a few years ago and, having walked 10 miles, didn't much fancy carrying on as it was irritating our chests and eyes. This completed the High Street ridge for us.

We did a big walk up the nose of Gray Crag from Hartsop, along the top of the glorious ridge to Thornthwaite Crag (another mop up from our High Street/Mardale Ill Bell day with a young dog we didn't want to push too far) and on to Froswick which was beautiful. We then went back up to Thornthwaite Crag and down Threshthwaite Mouth and along the Pasture Beck valley, but the next day Bro's knee swelled and he was laid up for a few days at the New Dungeon Ghyll Hotel. I spent some time exploring; I went into Mickleden, up to Blea Tarn and Oak Howe which was all really lovely.

Our time in our favourite Buttermere was superb. We’re not very good at relaxing, but the weather was stunning, the views sublime and we were staying at the Fish Inn which was very comfortable and friendly. Bro’s knee improved to such an extent that we could walk to and and sit by Buttermere and Crummock, taking photos, paddling, reading, brewing coffee and enjoying the peace and quiet. There was no mobile signal, no wifi and no television, so we read lots, slept 10 hours a night and ate well. It was just what we needed without realising we needed it.

We then moved to a rented cottage in Keswick with the most fabulous panorama of the northern fells from the back bedroom window. We enjoyed some lovely gentle walks in the area; a gorgeous one around Crosthwaithe Parish Church, another round Derwent Water, round the pretty village of Braithwaite, explored Keswick and Whinlatter Forest watching the amazing bird life from the comfort and warmth of the cafe.

SWIRral edge towards helvellyn

Fusedale

Froswick from thornthwaite crag

So, while Bro couldn't really do any of the higher fells, he sat and experimented with camera settings and the drone while I re-climbed Castle Crag, right up the hated slate pile this time that had slightly scared me twice before, meaning I hadn’t gone right to the very top. Bro decided on the last day he wanted to climb something small, as we’d be in the car for five hours the following day, so we climbed Rannerdale Knotts, an old favourite. His knee held up well and he was able to manage the walk quite easily.

At home, he’s undergoing an intensive round of physio and a full recovery is looking promising.

fleetwith pike

BUTTERMERE valley from rannerdale knotts

crummock water from rannerdale summit

brew with a view

So, we have 46 more Wainwright fells to climb to complete the challenge, which feels achievable before we both get too old and decrepit. I say both; I was on fire.......

Hidden Gems

When we are in the Lakes for a week or fortnight we always factor in days off, just to give us a little break from lots of climbing. You do need a little time to re-charge so, if like us you have itchy feet and a desire to see as much of the area as possible and make the most of the time, here are a few suggestions of some lovely, slightly out of the way places we've found and enjoyed.

Scaly Moss - this was on the way to climb a couple of  fells, but it was memorable enough for us to go back to. Mainly memorable for a herd of fell ponies cantering across the common, then wandering nonchalantly along the road. I adore horses and these beauties were very friendly. The area is just lovely to sit and admire the views, have a picnic or a wander, far from the madding crowd. Kinniside Stone Circle is also interesting, set on a rise just to the right of the top of the road in the picture.

free ranging fell ponies

Boon Wood, at the southern end of Coniston - this gently wooded, slightly sloping, grassy area is perfect for a picnic; five minutes from parking the car you can sit in the shade on the southern shores of Coniston Water with views up the lake and across the water to Brock Barrow and Low Light Haw on the eastern shore of the lake. Very peaceful.

Deepdale - we came across this area on our way up St Sunday Crag and it was gorgeous. Very secluded, very quiet and very beautiful, running alongside Deepdale Beck sandwiched between the bulk of St Sunday and Fairfield, it would be a lovely place for a walk and a picnic in its own right. Lovely little Shetland ponies graze next to the track and we didn't see another soul all day.

Summit of Brae Fell, Back o'Skiddaw - a little fell with a big panorama towards Dumfries and Galloway. These Caldbeck Fells are lovely; lonely, grassy, not particularly high but surrounded by higher fells, it's a great place to wander or sit and relax and you can usually have it all to yourselves. Feels lovely and remote in winter.

from boon wood down the length of Coniston

Binsey - another little fell in a superb position. The furthest north of all the Wainwright peaks, it sits on its own looking back towards Skiddaw and the northern fells to the south and across the Solway Firth to the north. An easy ascent of probably no more than an hour if taken slowly brings you to a flattish plateau area. Very peaceful, out of the way, this is a good one for a summer's evening.

Binsey’s summit cairn

Mousethwaite Comb - this area looks like a giant scoop has been taken out of the fell side. A steep path runs diagonally upwards, but it's the views back over Clough Head that are so worthwhile. At the top, you have options to go on either towards Sharp Edge or Bannerdale Crags, up Blencathra or over to Souther Fell. We've taken each route at various times, but on a calm, warm day, it's lovely to sit at the top and just take in those views.

the top of mousethwaite comb with the path snaking downwards

Angle Tarn - another gem and, judging from You Tube, also a popular wild camping site. This is in one of my favourite walking areas and there are a number of approaches. We've taken the path from Patterdale to Boredale Hause and walked the Coast to Coast path skirting Angletarn Crags, and also from Hartsop up to Hayeswater, then heading the other way on the Coast to Coast path. It's just so stunning and quiet and tucked away, you'd never know it was there unless you put some effort in. Always the best reward, I think.

Angle Tarn

Wonderful Winter walks with water

grasmere

Not everyone wants to climb to high points in winter. There is great pleasure to be had in wrapping up warmly and going for a bracing winter's walk by water without expending too much energy, whilst still enjoying the views and rewarding yourself afterwards in the pub, by the fire. Here are a few favourite Lakeland suggestions.

Loweswater Lakeshore

Loweswater is one of the smallest lakes on the western edge of the National Park. It's the only lake where the water flows back towards the park and not towards the sea and is a beautiful, peaceful place. In two and half miles, the path will take you from Maggie's Bridge through Holme Wood and back again (you can continue right round by taking the road if you prefer a loop), giving you beautiful views of Mellbreak and the high fells round Buttermere. Reward your efforts in the Kirkstile Inn.

Circuit of Ennerdale

The most westerly of all the lakes and the most remote. It's a deep glacial lake and the only one with no roads running alongside it and which has been the subject of a successful rewilding project. Much of the pretty shoreline is National Trust owned, and the full walk is along the shoreline for about six and a half miles on good paths. The views are superb looking up the valley. Very tranquil.

ennerdale

Devoke Water

The biggest tarn and one of the highest in the Lake District, is just off the Birker Fell Road in Eskdale. Even on a warm day in the height of summer, it's still possible to be the only people there and the views are staggering. The path round the tarn is mostly good, but can get a little marshy in places and part of the loop will be via Water Crag and Rough Crag, but the climbs are not too strenuous.

Aira Force to Glenridding on the Ullswater Way

A three mile walk by what some say is Lakeland's most beautiful lake. Straightforward paths, some surfaced, some not, run alongside the lakeshore taking you through Glencoyne Deer Park, all the while enjoying the stunning views this beautiful area has in spades. There is a small stretch on the road, so take care. New last year was the Dalemain Loop of the Ullswater Way - a five mile route across fields and parkland.

Wise Een Tarn

Located in Claife Heights, a favourite area of Beatrix Potter, this pretty tarn has beautiful views over to the Langdale Pikes. There are a number of ways to reach the tarn with walks of varying lengths, but the paths are all good and not too taxing. It's a lovely, gentle area to explore, with glimpses of Lake Windermere along the way.

wise een tarn

Third time lucky!

helvellyn summit views

We did it. For the third time of trying. At last.

I would hazard a guess that if you asked most people to name a mountain in the Lake District, the answer is usually Helvellyn, This is now helped by it having been voted 'Britain's Favourite Walk'. We have been visiting the Lake District in earnest for well over a decade now, but when we tell people about our experiences of trying to complete the challenge of climbing all the Wainwright peaks, the question had always inevitably been 'have you climbed Helvellyn?' We were always slightly embarrassed to admit that we hadn’t.

The first attempt failed because we were woefully unprepared in almost every way, so that attempt was aborted at Grisedale Tarn. Attempt two was slightly better from a preparation point of view, but the weather, coldness and Bro's thigh cramp scuppered that attempt, but we were at least on the Dollywaggon end of the Helvellyn ridge that time. Fast forward half a dozen years and lessons have been learnt, mistakes rectified, experiences put into practice and we finally conquered the mountain.

thirlmere from the climb up brown cove

worth the wait - the view from helvellyn

We have been to Swirls car park opposite Thirlmere countless times over the years. With an old dog, then a young dog then a sick dog, it provided a lovely little spot to park and take a really gentle walk up to Helvellyn Gill where the dogs could potter around by or in the water, without any real effort. The views down the valley towards Skiddaw gave the humans something to look at as well. This time it was different.

We once met a couple on Tarn Crag and got talking about climbing the Wainwrights. They had at that time done around 50, as had we. The difference was that they had done the 50 highest and we, the 50 lowest. As we parted, Bro and I pondered which approach was best. A friend of mine who had never been to the Lakes before, went with her new husband who persuaded her to climb 'something'. That something was Scafell Pike and she hated every minute of it and hasn't been back since. I really think, for us, it has been better to build up to the bigger fells; to make all our mistakes on the relative safety of grassy banks with lower elevations and shorter distances. For all of the first half of the Wainwrights, we had a hugely strong dog on a lead with us, which could have been dangerous on some of the bigger, rockier fells. We've also been able to build up fitness, amass all the right equipment, work out what food and drinks works for us and most importantly, enjoy it and face it with the right attitude.

striding edge from helvellyn

yes, i did look at the view!

So back to Swirls car park. We decided to go for the rocky path up to Brown Cove; a 2.5km climb which is not too bad, if a little relentless, but with the added advantage of gaining height quickly. The views of Thirlmere and the northern fells were welcomed at each pause for a breather. Eventually, we summited on a lovely mild September morning and had breathtaking panoramas all around us. It was wonderful and real sense of achievement.

striding edge

helvellyn’s summit trig point

Hail and hearty!

We haven’t been back from the Lakes for long and I'm already missing it. Strange yes, without our furry buddy, and whilst we tried not to visit too many places with strong associations, it was still disconcerting and upsetting to be walking without a dog after the last 16 or so years with one or other.

We decided to tackle a few of the high fells that we’d had in mind for a while, and these are what we climbed in four days.

Dollywaggon Pike: We first attempted this about seven years ago when we were naive and inexperienced. We walked up from Patterdale in torrential rain, got cold and wet and Bro got the worst cramp of his life on the ridge so we went straight back down without actually reaching the summit. This time we went up the Raise Beck gully from Dunmail Raise, branching slightly left before Grisedale Tarn and tackling the immensely steep grass bank which leads you up onto the ridge. As we started this slightly soul destroying climb, the heavens opened and a huge dump of hail was deposited on us from then until the minute we got back to the car. It was absolutely freezing on the summit, but we did get the views, so that made up for the drenching!

Absolutely frozen

Mellbreak: We've climbed a few fells in the Loweswater area and Mellbreak was the lowest of the ones we still wanted to do. We set off a little later than usual in beautiful sun, after treating ourselves to coffee at the Kirkstile Inn. The path down Mosedale was lovely with fantastic views of the famous lonely Holly Tree, and Hen Comb on the opposite side of the valley. After a mile or so, we decided to turn left directly up the side of Mellbreak, about half way along its length. This brought us out on a sort of saddle in the middle and it was an easy walk to the top. Once again, the hail hit us, but it couldn't dampen our enjoyment of the stunning views down the full length of Crummock and Buttermere to Fleetwith Pike and Haystacks. No wonder lots of people have told us it's their favourite.

buttermere views and hail showers

Blencathra: Another we'd been wanting to do for ages and it was a beautiful day in the valley. We parked at the bottom of Mousethwaite Combe quite early where there was an older lady and another couple already there, and we only saw each other all morning! As we started the climb up from the top of Mousethwaite Combe, thick cloud came down and enveloped us for the rest of our time on Blencathra. I quite like walking in the mist; it's really quiet, a bit spooky and it also hides the climb ahead so it seemed in no time at all we had run out of mountain and realised we were on the summit, but couldn't see anything. The mist cleared on the way down and we did get views which were stunning and we both really enjoyed this one. Obviously it was a beautiful day when we got back to the car and the cloud/mist lifted for the rest of the afternoon.....

just beginning to see the views…..on the way back down

Helvellyn & Nethermost Pike: Yes, after all this time, we still hadn't climbed Helvellyn. In the south, most people I speak to have heard of Helvellyn and yes, every time they ask if we've climbed it.....We have tried twice before and have been thwarted, once by our own woeful inadequacy and then by the aforementioned Dollywaggon Pike experience when we didn't even reach that summit.

So, fully prepared this time and again, in beautiful, hot sun we set off from the Swirls car park, taking the direct route up to Brown Cove. Steep, but short, on a fantastically well made rocky path. The views over Thirlmere and beyond were stunning and made the climb easier. Once on the broad summit plateau, there were jaw dropping views in all directions, but especially down to Red Tarn and over Striding and Swirral Edges. We decided to go on to Nethermost Pike and we got more wonderful views down the Grisedale Valley towards Patterdale. As we turned to go back up to Helvellyn again, the cloud descended and we couldn't see anything, but we had had the views. We ate a soggy sandwich in the wind shelter with a few other intrepid walkers before beginning the long, wet, windy descent. As we got lower, the weather improved and we ended with a well earned meal in the Kings Head.

views from helvellyn

THe view towards patterdale

On our last day, we bumped into and had a chat with Chris Jesty, then took a boat from Waterhead to Bowness, had lunch and a walk around and sailed back. It had been a wonderful week with some great weather, wonderful walks and relaxation after a difficult August. We'll be back in November for some winter summiting. And more hail no doubt.

Bletchley Park

bletchley park

In the middle of September, Dad and I visited Bletchley Park, somewhere I'd wanted to go for a very long time. I find the history of what went on there fascinating and I've read a lot around the subject; Alan Turing's biography, memoirs of the ladies of Bletchley, Gordon Welchman's story of Hut 6 as well as more general histories of the war effort.

Bletchley is situated just outside Milton Keynes. Dad had been before about a decade ago and couldn't believe the wonderful restoration work that has taken place. The way the exhibits and stories are laid out is amazing. Everything is beautifully presented and you are either free to wander at will, take a guided tour or use an audio guide. Dad and I wandered freely around the huge and impressive site.

The big house is stunning and the rooms are staged as though their occupants have just stepped out for a breath of air. The huts are probably the most interesting and, although the layout of each is not known specifically, they are set out as though work is still ongoing. The interactive, touch screen exhibits are fantastic - you can have a go at cipher and code cracking, mathematical problem solving, pattern spotting or memory puzzles which are all fascinating. They also have holographic projections of characters on the walls, so it's like you're joining a conversation that started just before you walked in.

an enigma machine

inside one of the huts

There is also a fascinating museum with huge number of Enigma machines, films, deciphered messages, a lot of examples of Alan Turing's papers and books and crucially, his apology.

The reconstruction of the Colossus machine is, as you might imagine, colossal, although it would also have been incredibly noisy, oily and filthy. Soundtracks of the experiences the female operators had working with the machines play over speakers as you walk round.

miles of cables, hundreds of bulbs

A few minutes walk to the far end of the park brings you to the Museum of Computing which houses the only replica, fully functioning Bombe machine in existence and we had a fascinating talk from one of the 15 people who built and operate it. Miles of cabling, thousands of bulbs, hot, noisy and a bewildering array of turning, clicking dials - it's mind boggling that people could have invented and built a machine like it.

the replica bombe machine

how anybody can work this out…..

Bletchley is well worth a visit and I would allow a full day to explore and take it all in. Your ticket will also be valid for a year from the date of issue, so you can go back for free if you wish. It's such a fantastic reminder and memorial to those special, brilliant, dedicated, brave and loyal people who helped us win the war, but were never allowed to tell anyone what they did.

www.bletchleypark.org.uk

North by North East

the view from roseberry topping

At the beginning of July I went north east for the second year running for a long weekend’s house party to celebrate a milestone birthday for my oldest friend, with her family (14 of us!) in a large house in Skinningrove, north of Whitby.

Skinningrove was part of large ironstone mining area and in fact where we stayed was the old power house for the mine. The mine entrance was just behind the house and is now closed, but the soil, rocks and riverbed in the village are a lovely rich terracotta colour as a result of all that ironstone There’s a lovely sandy beach which is huge when the tide is out and Skinningrove is also on the Cleveland Way, following the cliffs towards Saltburn one way and Staithes the other.

the beach at skinningrove

We did a lovely coastal cliff walk from Skinningrove to Saltburn and back which gave us fabulous sea views. Saltburn is a wonderful old fashioned Victorian seaside town which was bustling with holidaymakers on its immense sandy beach and in the sea. After a restorative cream tea, we headed back. It was very hot but cooler in the evenings so we had barbecues outside for every meal, enjoying a drink or two and the hot tub! ​

We took an early evening trip to Staithes, a pretty fishing village clustered around a busy harbour and spent a couple of hours watching the boats and the seabirds nesting on the cliffs. We also had a wander round Whitby which I've visited several times before, although I went up and into the Abbey this time and got a different perspective over the town and coast.

SALT BURN from the cleveland way

giant wind chime on the cliff just outside saltburn

just part of SALTbURN’S huge beach

pretty staithes

On my last full day there as some of the others were staying longer, we climbed Roseberry Topping near Great Ayton in fantastically warm weather, something I've wanted to do for a while and which was absolutely beautiful. A fairly stiff climb but straightforward and the views were superb.

It was a really enjoyable weekend in an area I’m really starting to fall in love with. A few days of laughter with good weather, good food and good friends.

roseberry topping

roseberry’s panoramic view

Favourite Fell Days: Fleetwith Pike, Haystacks, Brandreth and Grey Knotts

fabulous on HAYSTACKS summit

On a beautiful June day on Bro's birthday, we decided to tackle Fleetwith Pike, but then extended the walk to take in Haystacks, Brandreth and Grey Knotts to make a fantastic circular walk.

Parking in Keswick, we took the Honister Rambler up to Honister Slate Mine which is a great little bus ride with the added benefits of being able to enjoy the scenery and take the dog. The weather was as perfect as it could be; sharp, crystal clear light, a soft breeze but not too hot and being mid week, not that many people around.

After a fortifying coffee and the best ever Rice Krispie cake from the mine's café, we set off up the track towards Bell Crags, then took our own slightly off piste route up and popped out above the old Hopper Quarry. A simple, undulating walk brought us to Fleetwith's summit and breathtaking it was too; surely one of the best views we'd seen so far on our walks. We stopped for a while just to drink it all in and took lots of photos, one of which ended up in Trail, The Great Outdoors, Trek & Mountain and Lakeland Walker magazines!

From Fleetwith, it was a fairly straightforward, though steep, descent down towards Dubs Quarry, across Warnscale Beck and then a good, rocky path on up to Haystacks. We had a lunch stop at Blackbeck Tarn, then took another slightly off piste round round Green Crag to avoid the sharp drops which weren’t appealing with a dog straining at the lead. From there it was a good, solid route up to Innominate Tarn where we paid our respects to Wainwright, then carreid on up to the summit. It was by then very warm, but there was a lovely breeze on the top and the views were just amazing - right down the length of Buttermere and Crummock one way, then swinging round to Great and Green Gable behind with the Ennerdale Valley to the west.

Just beautiful

Fleetwith’s STUNNING summit views

After relaxing in the sun and having something to eat and drink, we skirted Innominate Tarn and set off for Brandreth. At a stile in a fence, the path splits into a higher and lower route. We ended up on the lower route which led away from Brandreth's summit, but in our defence, we were distracted by conversation with a German chap who was walking the entire National Park from west to east and wasn’t too sure of his route.

When we realised we were slightly too far along the lower path, we checked the map and found we were in between Brandreth and Grey Knotts, so we took a direct route straight up and came out on the saddle between the two summits. Back we went to Brandreth which only took about 15 minutes to reach the summit plateau. We lingered a while, before setting off along the ridge back to the summit of Grey Knotts which was very simple and straightforward with fabulous views all around. It was then just a case of climbing steeply back down the nose of Grey Knotts to the mine again.

innominate tarn on haystacks

wonderful views from haystacks on the way to brandreth

brandreth’s summit

A fabulous walk in perfect conditions with some of the best views yet. A great day.

Lake Como

In the travel industry, we have what are called educationals and familiarisation trips. These are essentially free trips provided by tour operators and/or tourist boards to enable you to see and experience the 'product' for yourself.

Educationals involve more looking round hotels and fam trips are slightly more the sort of thing you would do on your own holiday; so some hotel viewings and some sightseeing, to both long and short haul destinations. I have been lucky enough to have had at least one a year and have been to some amazing hotels I probably couldn't afford and even one or two places I might not have otherwise visited. Which is totally their point.

churches clinging to the shore

In the middle of May, I had a lovely three day fam trip to Lake Como. I absolutely love Italy and have been many times, but I'd never visited the Lakes area. My boss knows my love of lakes and mountains, so I was delighted.

It was spectacular. Ringed by mountains, fringed by sixteenth and seventeenth century villas (and yes, we did see George's!) with tiny villages, markets and churches. It sits almost on the border with Switzerland so you can see the snow capped Alps from Tremezzo. Staying in Como, we took a boat to Como Town, visited tiny villages with narrow alleyways and streets leading down to the water and called into cool, quiet churches perched on the hillsides and lakeshores. We took the ferry over to, and had lunch in, gorgeous Bellagio, famous for its silk and stylish people.​

Carrying on down the lakeshore, we came across the spot where Mussolini was shot, then drove up into the mountains following what was one of the stages of the Giro d'Italia. At the top of the mountain is a tiny church which is a mecca for professional and amateur cyclists as it’s a memorial to those who have lost their lives in cycling accidents. There’s also a large cycling museum nearby. We spend our last evening in Como learning how to make authentic pizzas in an outdoor pizza oven and enjoyed them with a glass of wine by the pool.

beautiful bellagio

the madonna del ghisallo church - a memorial to cyclists

Our last night was at the stately old lady of the lake, the Grand Hotel Tremezzo; a confection of a pile overlooking the lake and backed by pine wooded hills. It was real old school glamour; heavy brocades, deep red carpets, oil paintings and lots of gold. That evening we enjoyed a six course dinner, the highlight of which was the hotel's famous Saffron Risotto with real 18 carat gold which you eat with a gold spoon. Apparently only about 1400 people in the world have eaten it (it is that expensive) and I proudly have a certificate saying I was number 1399!

It's a lovely place for a weekend break. In a shade over two hours you can be at your hotel from leaving London. There is plenty of walking, hiking and rock climbing if you want to be active, but just sitting looking at the view with a delicious Italian coffee keeping an eye out for Mr Clooney is just as good!

looking down on the lake from the mountains

it is work, honest!

Delightful Discoveries

We've been visiting the Lake District for well over a decade now and have happened upon some lovely areas that I'm sure we wouldn't have if we hadn't been climbing and walking in some of the more remote areas. I thought I'd share some, but keep them to yourself otherwise everyone'll be there!

Back o'Skidda and the Uldale Fells

I'm sure those in the know will be fully aware of this area, but I think it's still fairly remote, a little off the well worn track, very lonely and utterly beautiful. We walked for 10 miles all over the fells there a couple of years ago and didn't see a soul all day.

Uldale Common

Dock Tarn

We climbed very steeply up from Rosthwaite on our way to Great Crag and Grange Fell a few years ago and came across this wonderful tarn tucked away amongst the bracken. It's a stunning spot to have a lunch break out of the wind and everywhere you look there are amazing views. A little gem.

Dock Tarn

The view from Rough Crag, Devoke Water

Last year we did the round of the six Outlying Fells surrounding Devoke Water and what a corker of a day that was. Warm, sunny and still and only one other person in the distance all day, and in the middle of August. The views were breathtaking, the walking straightforward and it was a day that made you glad to be alive. I chose this one because it's just so darn pretty. Actually, the views from all six summits are stunning.

rough crag’s view - not rough at all

Apronful of Stones

This delightful area sits at the base of the sublime Carrock Fell in the northern fells. Coming down from the summit, this is a lovely, quiet, flat area, slightly reminiscent of the New Forest with lovely views.

Apronful of Stones

Green Crag Plateau

I'm including this because it was unexpected, as well as beautiful, but it was essentially miles and miles of bog. What was unexpected was that you did a fairly lengthy and steep climb up from the Birker Road (we went to Great Worm Crag first of all) and it was almost as though you were in another, secret place altogether; one you couldn't see from the road and wouldn't know was there unless you climbed. It shows there is another, high level Lake District waiting to be discovered.

views from green crag over the bog

The Stanah Gill pool

This is a lovely, tiny glade on the way up or down Sticks Pass from Legburthwaite. There is a tiny waterfall dropping into a lovely crystal clear pool which, on a hot day, is a welcome cooling off point after a long day on the Dodds - just the right size for a large dog or your bare feet.

lovely and cool on a hot day

Favourite Fell Days : Skiddaw, Skiddaw Little Man and Lonscale Fell

views over keswick on the climb up skiddaw

Continuing the next in the set of my favourite and most memorable mountain days, Skiddaw last October sticks in my mind. It wasn't the best weather wise but it was one of those days at the end of a week of high level walking where everything comes together and you feel great. No aches and pains, no tiredness, no effort to be honest; days when you feel you could go on for miles.

crepuscular rays over clough head

The day was misty, a bit murky and blowing a gale at the top. The clouds scudded over the landscape as we climbed, giving tantalising glimpses of the views, then hiding them again. After climbing Jenkin Hill, we reached the plateau that leads to the base of Little Man where it was very quiet, the wind had dropped and the mist had settled. On Little Man’s summit however, the wind hit again with some force; strong enough not to try and get the camera out, so we carried on towards Skiddaw which was completely hidden in cloud at that point but at least you couldn’t see how much you had to climb!

little man on little man

As we approached the final pull up to the summit, the mist lifted and we had amazing views down to Keswick and Bassenthwaite basking in the sun that was eluding us. On the summit plateau (which we had to ourselves at that point), the wind was so strong you had to brace against it, but it was exhilarating. At the trig point though, it really was strong and much colder, so we hunkered down in the shelter for some refreshment and were joined by a fell runner donning more clothing before racing off back to Little Man.

sumimt of skiddaw

the cloud lifting for views of bassenthwaite

back o’skidda

As we made our way back down, the summit became much busier, the sun came out and the wind weakened. We dropped down along the path on Skiddaw's eastern flank towards Lonscale Fell which was pretty flat and straightforward, with views to Blencathra and the Back o'Skiddaw accompanying us all the way.

Lonscale Fell is a fairly easy grassy up and back and, after a bite to eat, a bit of 'off roading' saw us back on the path down to the car again which we did at a jog - it only took 20 minutes or so from there and was good fun.

The best part of the day was the Bean on the Fells van serving hot chocolate with marshmallows, lovely home made cakes. free doggy treats and chatting with others about their day in the hills; the perfect end to a perfect day.

loving it

Captivating Coniston

the coniston fells

We've just had a lovely week in the Lakes staying in Coniston village, which we haven't done before. Our four legged walking buddy hasn't been at full fitness recently, so we decided to tackle some Outlying Fells which tend to be shorter walks with less climbing, but have equally breathtaking views. We’ve climbed all of the 'big' ones in this area, so it was lovely to see some alternative views, especially on the eastern shore of the Lake, and we just love the whole Torver Common area, which is great for gentle walks and picnics.

We had a fantastic week and didn't move out of the Coniston area - which is lovely - at all. We had warm, sunny weather all week and the dog did really, really well. We ended the week climbing Walna Scar which, at 2000ft, is the highest Outlyer and afforded us some beautiful views.

I can highly recommend the gorgeous Black Bull’s fabulous roast beef on a Sunday. The Crown, the Yewdale and the Sun Inn all serve great food and are dog friendly. There’s a lovely new cafe called Herdwicks, which has amazing cakes and lots of Hardwick related products for sale, and size of the breads and pastries in the little bakery on Yewdale Road have to be seen to be believed!

admiring the views on the way to the top o’selside

tottlebank height

on the way to yew bank

yew bank’s summit looking to the coniston range

yew bank with black combe in the background

coppermine valley

high lite haw on coniston’s eastern shore

brock barrow’s summit looking down coniston water

walna scar’s fairly measly cairn with harter fell in the background looking like mount doom

It doesn’t have to be pointy to have a point...

common HAIRCap moss

I've read a couple of interesting articles this week; one from Stuart Maconie about the pleasures of walking in the Midlands, an area overlooked by many, and another about the joys of walking on the flat.

We can't all be lucky enough to live close to, or in, one of our stunning National Parks, and lots of us are a long way away from the coast, mountains, high hills or dales and, with work and family commitments, it isn't even always possible to get there on a regular basis; for some, it may just be a precious week or two a year.

However, for those of us who like to walk daily, we sometimes have to choose routes that are convenient and fit into our busy lives. Some people don't actually want to walk up hills and down dales, some will only walk in good weather and some don't like to walk recreationally at all. Bro and I have a large dog who needs a lot of exercise and is walked twice a day. Every day. Even Christmas Day. In rain, sleet, wind, storms, mist, hail, snow, fog or shine.

naturally beautiful

this will all be bluebells soon

We don't unfortunately live that near to a National Park or the coast, but we do have the lovely Oxfordshire chalk landscape to walk in, but inevitably, we have to walk close or closer to home on occasion and these walks, frankly, are not always as inspiring as they might be.

Some routes, because of time constraints, we've done dozens of times in one form or another and we're going further and further afield to try and find new areas. So yesterday, I thought I'd take the camera and do a walk in an area we've been to many many times before and see what there is of interest by looking properly.

It was a flat walk of around four miles in Oxfordshire. To be honest, it did make the walk more interesting and made us pay more attention than usual to our surroundings. As the chap who wrote the article said, there doesn't have to be a panoramic vista, a trig point, a ridge to walk or a peak to bag; you can get as much pleasure walking on the flat, and I’d have to agree.

enticing valleys

great to see new, traditional hedging

home made mounting block

lovely rich soil, but how did that single tyre track get there….?

big skies

Lots is being written at the moment about walking and our mental health and the concerns over obesity, so wherever it is, whatever the weather, whatever you prefer, however long or short, the most important thing is to keep doing it!

Kites, combes and county tops

In the travel industry, January is our busiest time and it has been really, really busy, but in a good way. Feeling a bit like a wrung rag in the evenings hasn't left much time for anything else so firstly, Happy New Year. Secondly, what thoughts I have been able to muster have turned to holidays for the year, but as those are a little way off, walks closer to home have been on the agenda.

the oxfordshire plain from watlington hill

Here on the north Berkshire, south Oxfordshire border, the weather so far this month (bar a couple of days of unexpected snow) has been really quite good. We've had a lot of beautiful crisp days with fantastic sun and deep blue skies more reminiscent of spring.

In the south, we don't have too much in the way of big hills; the nearest to us being the Chilterns. Over the decades, we have visited Watlington Hill countless times as it's pretty much the highest point nearest to us, and does have lovely views over the Oxfordshire Plain, some good walks and great places to sit and picnic.

It's an area of chalk downland with mixed woodland of broadleaf and unusually, yew, and is also a Site of Special Scientific Interest for, among other things, butterflies. It's a good place to fly kites or see kites - Red ones to be specific, and there are masses of them - I counted eight the other week. We have two pairs that nest next door but one to us, and once we counted twelve flying around overhead (someone must have put food out I suspect). They are such beautiful birds though, and I love the way they track the dog up and down the garden.

lovely weather for january

Thinking about the high points near us, Bro and I have an app that details various hill lists, and one of those is county tops. We thought we'd try and climb them in the area, and then as and when we travel around. Berkshire's was listed as the top of a road on a housing estate west of Reading, but then as Bowsey Hill, Ashley Hill and Walbury Hill, so we weren’t sure which one it really was. Googling Walbury Hill appeared to be the answer at a whopping 297m, and it has an Iron Age hill fort on the summit, although it’s all on private land, so you can’t actually get to the trig point. We’ve been up there several times and the views are beautiful though. We did 'climb' Bowsey and Ashley Hills (466 and 476ft), but gloss over that; we did.

My overriding memory of Walbury Hill is slipping and falling full length in the mud with Bro filming it and laughing until he saw my muddy, bloody knee so at least had the grace to stop laughing, but not to A) help me up, B) give me one jot of sympathy or C) delete the film…

Walbury Hill leads on to Combe Gibbet where there is a replica of the gallows that was originally erected in 1676; a creepy place in the winter when you're the last up there, but beautiful in the summer with far reaching views views and a great starting point for some good walks.

Suffice to say, we haven't really made great headway into the county tops - I think we've done 12 out of 184 but, until we can get up north where it's considerably lumpier, Watlington Hill will do nicely.

more views and with added red kite

Vibrant, Venerable Venice

I hadn't been to Venice since I was seven when I can just about remember eating ice creams in St Mark's Square and a Gondola ride. I'd always wanted to visit again as an adult, but Bro didn't really want to go having been three times already, so he was on dog sitting duties while a friend and I had two nights away.

One of our lovely tour operators treated us to a suite upgrade complete with champagne on ice at our hotel, the lovely Londra Palace, two minutes from St Mark's Square. After an early flight, we had a very James Bond style private water taxi arrival (again, courtesy of said tour operator), dropped our bags off and spent the afternoon exploring the main and back streets, loving all the little artisan shops. That evening we enjoyed a complimentary three course dinner courtesy of the hotel this time,, which was absolutely delicious.

The next morning we took the hotel's courtesy water taxi to Murano to visit the glass factory and wandered the tiny streets browsing the glass shops (yes, I did buy a couple of pieces!) then it was on to Burano, famous for its lace and brightly coloured houses, where we enjoyed an al fresco lunch and a glass of chilled, crisp Italian wine.

That afternoon was spent in the Doge's Palace (we had free tickets as part of our little package) which was stunning, but I found the prison more interesting; crossing the Bridge of Sighs and roaming the dark, narrow passages and peering into all the cells.

On our final day we took a water bus the full length of the Grand Canal to the fruit and fish markets and walked all the way back to St Mark's Square, where we joined a pre-booked tour, a lovely generous present from my friend, to go into the secret passages and hidden parts of the Doge's Palace which was utterly fascinating.

We visited the medieval prison, the torture room, went up into the roof, saw Casanova's cell and heard all about his escape (I have subsequently read his book which I would thoroughly recommend) and explored the secret passages leading from the prison and the administrative offices to the grand rooms of the palace, where we literally popped out of a cupboard at the end of the tour!

Venice is so beautiful, so unique and so precious and I'm so grateful and delighted to have been able to visit again.

the grand canal

fascinating narrow streets

this was art rather than structural!

glass blowing in murano

colourful burano

houses of every colour in burano

one of the largest rooms in europe with a ceiling by tintoretto, in the doges palace

the bridge of sighs - beautiful from the outside, but it leads to the prison

the reason for the sigh on the bridge of sighs - the prisoners’ last glimpse of the outside

inside the bridge of sighs

casanova’s cell

the medieval leads - the cells just under the roof

the roof holding tintoretto’s ceiling up

Beautiful backdrops beat big birthday blues

the coast to coast path above patterdale

Well, the actual day of my 'big' birthday has just been and gone and I can’t quite believe it. Still, I reasoned that if it really had to happen, then at least I would be in my favourite place. As luck would have it, the weather at the beginning of October couldn't have been better. A slight crispness in the air, crystal clear light and wonderfully sunny with only one day of rain and even that didn't last long.

We had a fantastic week of high fell walking and bagged Great Rigg, Fairfield, High Street, Mardale Ill Bell, High and Low Pike, Skiddaw, Little Man and Lonscale Fell and it was one of those weeks (in spite of my now advancing age) that we both felt really fit and strong, didn't have any niggly aches or pains and could have kept going and going. One of those weeks you remember despite the birthday (or perhaps because of it), rounded off by a fantastic, if windy, day on Skiddaw.

On my actual birthday, we were on High Street and Mardale Ill Bell and it was truly magnificent; I genuinely didn't want to be anywhere else in the world. Coming down from Skiddaw, Skiddaw Little Man and Lonscale Fell we stopped at the 'Bean on the Fell's coffee van for hot chocolate with  marshmallows, dog treats and lots of like minded people discussing their day - a lovely way to end a wonderful day. 

GRASmere from the climb up to great rigg

great rigg on the left and the ridge to fairfield

what a place to be on your birthday! on mardale ill bell

low pike from high pike

the view from skiddaw’s blustery summit

Coastal paths and moorland

whitby abbey’s imposing position

My oldest friend and her husband treated me to a long weekend for my forthcoming ‘big’ birthday, which was incredibly generous of them, so early September saw me on the other side of the Pennines for a change, on the north east coast, basing ourselves just outside Whitby.

I hadn't been to Whitby for what must be about 18 years, or Robin Hood's Bay since I was tiny, so it was lovely. As was the weather. The afternoon saw us wandering around the town, up to the Abbey, onto the Prom to see the seals, meandering the narrow streets and browsing the little shops. Then it was across to the other side of the harbour, up to the whale bones, back to the car and on for a meal and something fizzy.

The following day we met up with my friend's sister and her husband (also old friends) who were camping on the cliffs above Robin Hood's Bay and the five of us walked down towards the Bay, but took the Cinder Track, joining the Cleveland Way Coastal Path to Whitby. The Cinder Path is the old Scarborough to Whitby rail line that closed in 1965 and it makes for an easy, flat walk with beautiful coastal views.

the beautiful cleveland way from robin hood’s bay to whitby

fantastic beaches

The Cleveland Way National Trail is a 109 walk from Filey to Helmsley and hugs the top of the cliffs. The views were stunning, especially coming into Whitby with the Abbey ruins looming. After lunch on the pier, we took the Cinder Path back to Robin Hood's Bay and enjoyed fish and chips in the sun overlooking the beach.

The next day, the three of us went to Goathland, home of the popular Heartbeat series, and did a walk following West Beck up and down the valley to the Wheeldale Roman Road and back over the moors into the village for a cup of tea at the railway station, watching the steam trains.

The weather was perfect, the scenery was wonderful and the company was even better. A lovely way to kick start birthday celebrations.

fish and chip stop in robin hood’s bay

the moors around goathland

Wonderful Wasdale

the country’s favourite view!

We have just returned from another week in the Lake District and this time we decided to stay near Wasdale and climb in that area. We mixed up some higher and lower fells, still picking fairly carefully as the dog is young, but hit a week of really beautiful weather and managed 14 summits in all, as well as visiting Ravenglass, St Bees and discovering some Roman ruins

I hope the pictures do justice to this beautiful and remote area.

a complete round of the six summits of devoke water without seeing anyone else!

devoke water - a perfect setting on a perfect day

big views of wasdale from little irton pike

a fabulous day climbing great worm crag and green crag - lots of boggy ground but stunning views

panoramic views from muncaster fell

ravenglass estuary

the romas bath house outside ravenglass - the tallest roman remains in northern england

WASDALE head from illgill head

views to the coast from whin rigg

st bees

one for another day!

Making Tracks

green lanes of the KENtmere valley

Having just discovered my first lonning in Cumbria last week, I though I'd look into old trackways a little more and it turns out to be a vast network; in fact the United Kingdom is crisscrossed with ancient paths and tracks.

As well as the longer, more well known paths, there are hundreds of small, secret, almost forgotten pathways that go by many different names: holloways, green lanes, barfs, sunken lanes, greenways, trods, byways, driftways, lonnens, loanins, lonnings, lons, droveways, pilgrimage routes, miners paths, trading paths, packhorse routes, reivers roads, military roads, turnpikes, shieling paths, boreens, bealachs, casans, smugglers paths, timber trackways, corduroy trackways, herepaths, herewags, heargways, toghers, slighes, ridgeways, watershed routes and many more

Huntingstile Lonning, Grasmere

TICKLE BELLY alley lonning, boot

ticklebelly alley

Many follow the natural contours of the landscape; rivers, ridges, valleys; perhaps more solid ground or firmer sand, over mountain passes and through marshy or boggy ground and to fording points of rivers and streams. Many have neolithic origins such as The Ridgeway which was in use 5000 years ago or the Sweet Track which is perhaps 5800 years old. Some are Saxon, some Celtic, lots are Roman such as the Fosse Way or Watling Street and were built over older trackways, some are medieval - the Long Causeway - and some are later still; 17th or 18th century such as the Keighley and Kendal Turnpike or the Sparrow Herme Turnpike.

However, these routes, which also include the Corlea Trackway, Icknield Way, Harrow Way, Pilgrim's Way, Mariner's Way, Saints Way, the Old Way, Broomway, Kennet Avenue, Ermine Street, Dere Street, the Peddars Way and the Devil's Causeway were all well used. The green lanes or lonnings or holloways were more rural; used for driving livestock, travelling between settlements, or were eroded by water, marked boundaries between two landowners and some do date back to the Romans and Iron Age.

Sunken lanes are characterised by quite steep sides and hedgerows, packhorse routes tend to be narrower, drovers routes are wide, trods are fairly indistinguishable, barfs are quite steep and green lanes were unpaved and sometimes only known to locals.

green lanes of the KENtmere valley

the Ridgeway

What is sad today, is that a lot are disappearing; either through a lack of use and have become too overgrown, some are being upgraded to byways, some have become proper roads, hedgerows have being grubbed up to make way for larger fields and these beautiful little corridors through the landscape have been lost  - occasionally just a rut in the landscape is all that's left.

Let's not lose them. Let's search them out and use them. Let's listen to Joni Mitchell and not go down the 'pave paradise, put up a parking lot' route; there are hundreds of better paths to choose.

old woodland paths

a path or a burrow?!